The Surfers & Winter Day Dreams
Where there is a body of water and a tide, there they are!
As someone who loves poetry, I quickly found myself drawn to this narrative. Having a string of assignments where I was shoot surfing. To photograph it as I saw it, to freely interpret it without much creative direction, as such the photos came very easily. These soulful, quite, epic moments are well known and worth shooting over & over again. I think those who surf are much smarter than the rest of us. Hawaii, Costa Rica, Huntington Beach, Florida, Brazil, New Jersey, Puerto Rico, Northern California, Mexico, etc., etc.
Sea Fever, Johns Masefield
I must go down to the seas again, to the lonely sea and the sky,
And all I ask is a tall ship and a star to steer her by; And the wheel’s kick and the wind’s song and the white sail’s shaking, And a grey mist on the sea’s face, and a grey dawn breaking.
I must go down to the seas again, for the call of the running tide. Is a wild call and a clear call that may not be denied; And all I ask is a windy day with the white clouds flying, And the flung spray and the blown spume, and the sea-gulls crying.
I must go down to the seas again, to the vagrant gypsy life, To the gull’s way and the whale’s way where the wind’s like a whetted knife; And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing fellow-rover, And quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trick’s over.
Chasing Mavericks
"We all come from the sea, but we are not all of the sea. Those of us who are, we children of the tides, must return to it again and again, until the day we don’t come back leaving only that which was touched along the way."
Me:
"Where there is a body of water and the tide, there they are."